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Sixty Second Snaps

The Human Clock is a lovely little project which anyone can contribute to. It displays a different photo of the current time every minute of the day. Many of the photos, which are sent in from all over the world, are charmingly unremarkable. A woman with short cropped hair points at the time written on a piece of paper on her car windscreen. Bored office workers in Virginia arrange pens and coffee cups to read 4:15. Time passes.

Mathematics

Forgive me for quoting George Monbiot again, but:

The US government has so far pledged $350m to the victims of the tsunami, and the UK government £50m ($96m). The US has spent $148 billion on the Iraq war (1) and the UK £6bn ($11.5bn).(2) The war has been running for 656 days. This means that the money pledged for the tsunami disaster by the United States is the equivalent of one and a half days’ spending in Iraq. The money the UK has given equates to five and a half days of our involvement in the war.

The rest of his latest article is here. Read it.

One Thing Looks Like Another, But Actually Isn’t

Courtney’s been marking end-of-term Shakespeare exams. She has one student who consistently takes very difficult buzzword theories which s/he doesn’t understand and tries to cram them into essays where they don’t belong. So far the student has tried to use Foucault to argue that King Lear is trapped in a Panopticon, and has invoked Edward Said’s theories on Orientalism to suggest that Caliban, the savage otherworldly son of the witch Sycorax apparently represents arabic culture. A recurring feature in the student’s essays is Baudrillard’s theory of the simulacrum.

I like simulacra. Here’s a literal simulacrum: it’s a little image of Rasputin in a kitten’s ear, see:

Russia's greatest love machine in the ear of an innocent little kitty cat.
Image "borrowed" from Fortean Times’ Simulacra Corner.

A very cute juxtaposition of the innocent and the debased, I think you’ll agree. Another simulacra is the grilled cheese sandwich that was all over the net about a month ago, and eventually sold on ebay for $28,000. Quite how these instances of illusory resemblance tie into the relationship between Antony and Cleopatra is still a mystery to me. It’s probably still a mystery to Courtney’s student too.

What is Eggnog?

Here is the ingredients list from a carton of Crystal Eggnog:

Milk, nonfat milk, nonfat milk solids, cream, high fructose corn syrup, egg yolks, sugar, corn syrup, nutmeg, natural and artificial flavour, disodium phosphate, annatto extract (colour), mono and diglycerides, turmeric (colour), whey, stabiliser (guar gum, carrageenan).

Imagine a drink with a consistency and flavour halfway between cream and custard. Add a hint of nutmeg and you’re just about there. If you drink it in America it’ll be chock full of horrible high fructose corn syrup rather than glucose, which is slightly more expensive and much better for you.

All hail the spirit of free enterprise!

A Junkopia Health Warning

I used to think that Absinthe was a pretty deadly drink – Baudelaire (and other artistically inclined Frenchies) destroyed themselves with it for years until the French authorities banned it. But I can’t help thinking that Baudelaire’s decline would have been much faster had he become hooked on everclear. Banned in the UK and several US states, it’s a very highly potent grain alcohol, similar to vodka but much, much stronger. The average bottle of Everclear is 95% proof.

Last night we had drinks with a couple Courtney recently became friends with. As we all know, drinks with me is rarely just a quick little snifter and home early to bed. We hit it pretty heavy. After a good number of empty beer bottles had been racked up our host nipped to the kitchen and rummaged in the freezer. “Have you ever had this?” he asked, holding up a bottle of Absolut. “Yes, of course” I replied. “No, this,” he said, holding up what was in his other hand, a bottle of Everclear.

I was sensible, or so I thought, and took only a couple of sips. It burnt like the first time I drank whisky. It felt like it was taking the enamel off my teeth and bleaching my guts, but other than that I manifested no ill effects. Not immediately, anyway.

I woke up at one this afternoon with a distinctly non-beer hangover. At about four I ate some granola and threw it back up. I slept awhile and then I had an omelette. It just about stayed down. It’s now twelve in the morning and I still feel like a pig shat in my head. Normally my hangovers recede midway through the afternoon and leave in their place an intense craving for fry-ups and pizzas. Not so this one; it has cruelly robbed me of my appetite.

Having undergone this important research, I feel it is my duty to warn you, dear readers, of the dangers of this noxious drink. Even if someone has a gun to your head, decline. A bullet would be less painful.

Of course, after I’d drunk my two sips my host told me what he uses it for when he’s not springing it on unsuspecting guests.

“Yeah, it’s really good for cleaning things.”

Actually, I think we do have Everclear in the UK, but not by that name. We call it methylated spirit. Excuse me, I have an overwhelming urge to retch.

Festive Recipe

Working in a coffee shop isn’t too bad. I get to eat and drink almost anything there for free. In the run up to Christmas we’ve been serving eggnog lattes. These are alright, but nowhere near as good as what I invented today.

The Festive Vanilla Nogshake

You will need:
3 big scoops or 0.6lbs or 270g of ice cream
1 cup or 240 ml of eggnog
50ml or a double shot of brandy

Throw ingredients into blender and pulse for 20-30 seconds; slightly longer than a normal milkshake because eggnog is so darned thick. Pour into a pint glass and top with whipped cream and a sprinkling of nutmeg, if you so desire. Suck through a straw until you can suck no more.

Make sure you have a friend on hand to help you finish it off. It’s very, very rich.

Variations: Chocolate ice cream gives and even richer flavour. Mint Choc Chip ice cream is wrong.

The Black Box

I returned to the empty apartment after my morning shift to find it dim and empty. A small black box sat in the corner of the kitchen. Leads trailed from it into the wall. There were vents along the top, a row of five lights on one side and a switch on the back. Where had this mysterious box come from? I opened a beer and sat staring at the box. In its presence time seemed distorted, sucked in and compressed. I stared and drank.

The black box & a bottle of Theakston's Old Peculier

A cat wailed in the parking lot below. I took a slug from the beer and reached towards the box to flick its switch. It offered little resistance. There was a sudden flash like the return of a thousand distant memories and a sound which can only be transcribed as “fo’shizzle!” I was transported to a land of burning phosphor. I heard languages and music of many nations. I saw footballers punching the air, armies marching, face after face after face. I felt the presence of all the people I’d ever known edging inches closer.

For ever, it seemed, I whirled in distraction, watching the pictures, hearing the soundbytes, sucking it in greedily like an endless milkshake. And all of a sudden I was sated. In the blink of an eye I was back in the kitchen with an empty beer bottle in my hand? Where had I been? Would I ever go back there again? I hoped so.

We got broadband internet, DSL, call it what you will. It’s here, it’s turned on, and I’m connected again. Hurrah!

World of the Strange

This completely boggles my mind. When I moved over to this side of the pond I thought long and hard about what to do with my mobile. It doesn’t work in the US, but it’s still dead handy when I’m back in the UK. Obviously, I don’t want to be paying twenty quid a month for something I’m not going to use for eleven months of the year, so I changed my service plan to one where there’s no line rental and you’re simply billed for the calls you make.

This worked fine, up until last month. Dad told me I had a bill for about three quid. This didn’t make sense. I’ve got the phone and it’s not been connected to the Orange network for a few months. I’m not paying insurance on it. What was this charge?

Orange think it’s in your best interests (and theirs) to pay your monthly bill by direct debit. In fact they’re so keen for you to do this that they charge you three quid a month on top of your bill if you don’t. My monthly bill is £0.00. So, to avoid paying the fee, I now need to ring my UK bank and ask them to set up a direct debit to pay Orange £0.00 per month, which is patently stupid – even more stupid than this, this, and this. Okay, maybe not the last one.

Oh, and who actually eats the back of a chicken? What does it matter if the back gets soggy?

Donate Today!

As a direct result of the US election today, the "Bring Liam Home" fund has opened for donations. All monies raised will be spent on a cheap, no-frills, lose-your-luggage, rudely hostessed flight on a crippled US airline back to the UK. If you donate enough maybe I’ll be able to fly Courtney back too. But let’s bring me home before I get drafted.

Of course, once I’m out of the US, I’ll be a victim of its foreign policy again. Excuse me if I don’t blog for a while. I think I’m off to plan a violent revolution. Maybe I should think about using the "Bring Liam Home Fund" to buy explosives from Iraq.

Help.

A Taste of San Francisco

Gosh, I’m getting behind with this blogging malarkey. We must get an internet connection at home soon.

A couple of weeks ago Courtney’s parents took us to San Francisco. What a city! We got a couple of snaps, and this one seemed to give capture one of the many flavours of the place.

People, sealions, San Francisco, 25th September 2004.

Arf! Arf! Arf!

Road Trip: Epilogue

So what have I learnt from this 4000+ mile excursion across the USA? A multitude of things, to be sure, but one in particular keeps begging for attention, and now we’re settled I’ve had time to reflect on it properly.

Regional stereotypes in Europe and the UK are disproved by the people you meet often as they are reaffirmed. There’s the man from Edinburgh who can’t stand whisky and the Man Utd. fan who doesn’t live in Surrey. In America I’ve found this not to be the case; people conform to the stereotypes more often than not. While England is a small cameo piece, delicately and minutely detailed, America is painted in bold colours and broad strokes on a wide canvas.

I think much of this has to do with the way America communicates with itself. TV and film, especially, have formed as well as informed the public consciousness, and more than anywhere else. Hollywood has its ready stereotypes of each state: the elderly Kentucky gentlewoman, the crunchy Californian, the Texan Cowboys fan, and astonishingly, these people exist in real life as if formed by the silver screen. In many ways they have been. In America more than anywhere else I’ve been, the TV is a mirror. This is not to say American TV is realistic, because it’s not. American program making conforms to none of the conventions of documentary realism; it’s pure fantasy which seeps out of the tube and takes hold of American reality.

How is this possible? I think mostly because of the sheer distances involved. Outside the major cities there are large patches of isolation, and isolation breeds differences, in some cases huge differences. The TV negates some of this distance, brings a far larger circle of acquaintances into the living room than would normally come visiting. Imagine, for example, the culture clash that would occur between a Bostonian banker and a Texas farmhand.

In the UK we have a centuries old class system, antagonisms and alliances which define us as part of the same lump of people. Whether we love or hate another group we are inextricably bound to them. America does not have this socio-historical mesh; instead it has a powerful national myth. It’s there in the endlessly repeated fluttering stars and stripes, and it’s there in Hollywood movies and on TV. Its message is “We are all Americans.” So what if you’re a Boston office worker and wear $800 designer Italian shoes? So what if you’re a Texas rancher with a ten-gallon hat and work-roughened hands? So what if you can’t agree on politics, sports, or religion? There is always one thing you can agree on. You are an American, and so is he. The myth, the stars and stripes, and all that go with it are a mental cement to unite the people of these diverse and remote states.

If Europe were ever to unite to the same extent a huge amount of time and money would need to be expended in creating a unifying myth strong enough to convince Sicilian olive-growers, Dusseldorf brewers, London bankers, Cork farmers, Parisian chefs and Marbellan hotel managers that they are all citizens of the same country. It would need to be strong enough to conquer the smaller national myths and also to conquer a history of rivalry, squabbling, feuds and wars. Before I saw America I would have said it wasn’t possible to brew a myth that strong. Now I’m not so sure.

Road Trip: Day Fifteen

Day 15: Curry Village, Yosemite to Davis, CA.

We wake at 7am, having slept for twelve hours straight, and head up to Glacier point. The air is crisp and sweet at this height and the view is breathtaking. We’ve seen many of America’s natural wonders on this trip, from the Mammoth Caves to the Grand Canyon. We’ve seen small patches of intense prettiness and, more often, large swathes of imposing magnificence, but Yosemite has both.

Road Trip: Day Fourteen

Day 14: Somewhere on Route 178, CA to Yosemite National Park, CA

07.00am
The petrol station attendant arrives, we fill up, and off we go.

11.00am
Sleep deprived, I dozed most of the drive this morning. I don’t know how Courtney has managed to stay awake. Now it’s my turn to drive while she dozes. This is our penultimate day on the road. I wish we were enjoying it more.

Road Trip: Day Thirteen

Lake Havasu City, AZ to Red Rock Canyon, CA

11.15am
Lake Havasu is waiting for a population explosion. We entered the town last night on a fresh new four lane road studded with junctions to avenues that are yet to be built. In the distance the lake shimmered, oasis-like.

Lake Havasu City is famous for being the home of London Bridge. In 1973 the City of London, unable to stop it sinking, decided to replace the bridge and put it up for offers. A businessman, keen to promote Lake Havasu as a tourist destination thought he was getting Tower Bridge. He made a successful offer of $2,400,000 and spent a further $4,500,000 to transport and re-assemble it at its current location. In the intervening years a number of "English" style buildings have mushroomed up around the bridge, the lamentable inaccuracy of which is clear in the photos. Streets have been named in homage to England; Lake Havavsu sports a Windsor Beach, a Dover Road, and a Hyde Park (yet to be built, right next to a landfill).

Road Trip: Day Twelve

Grand Canyon Village, AZ to Lake Havasu, AZ

12.32pm
My sleep was interrupted twice last night by the deranged “yip yip-yip waaoohh!” cries of coyotes. Courtney woke me this morning with the question “Do you think that family ever got out of the canyon?”
“Nah,” I reply, “the turkey vultures are picking their bones clean as we speak.”

We can fit in another quick hike before our check-out time this morning, so we take one of the rim trails. Walks along the rim are the easiest and most touristy thing to do. Shuttle buses deposit their human cargo at the most scenic points; people amble to the guard rails, snap a few snaps and amble back to the next bus fifteen minutes later. We get off at Hopi point, five stops out, and walk back. We see a monument to the first man to map the canyon, an abandoned uranium mine and lots of startling views, which aren’t as satisfying as yesterday’s because we haven’t earnt them.

Road Trip: Day Eleven

Grand Canyon Village, AZ

We have the whole day at the canyon today so we sleep in a little later than normal. Most tourists restrain themselves to walking along the rim of the canyon, while some will dip into it using the popular Bright Angel trail. More experienced hikers use the more challenging routes. I decide we’ll take South Kaibab trail down into the canyon; it’s secluded but it won’t kill us.

Mule train, Grand Canyon, AZ, 10th September 2004.

Almost immediately we see a couple of mule trains. The first carries tourists, the second carries their baggage. This near the rim we’re sheltered by a curve in the canyon and walk mostly in shade. Three quarters of a mile and 600 feet down the trail is a bundle of huge rocks which are our first stop, “Ooh Aah Point”, doubtless named because you say “Ooh" when you see the view and “Aaargh” when you slip over the edge. From here we can only see the upper canyon, the river is shyly hiding in the inner canyon.

We get talking to a pair of hikers who we heard well before we saw them. They are heading down to Skeleton Point, three miles along and 2040 feet down. Do we think we’ll go that far? Maybe. It depends how we feel at the next stop. Most of the folk on this trail are friendly, almost everyone says “Hi” as you pass. Sometimes they tell us how far down they’ve been and we tell them where we’re going. There’s a kinship between those who walk the trail out here.

Road Trip: Day Nine

Santa Rosa Lake State Park, NM to Holbrook, AZ

06.15am

Sunrise over Santa Rosa Lake, NM, 8th September 2004.

Courtney wakes up early, desperate for the bathroom. She returns to the tent urging me to get up. The sun is about to rise over Santa Rosa lake. New Mexico bills itself as the “State of Enchantment” and I’m starting to see why.

Road Trip: Day Eight

Day Eight, Palo Duro Canyon, TX to Santa Rosa Lake State Park, NM

08.00am
Courtney finds a gobble of eleven wild turkeys outside the bathrooms. They’re pecking about in the half-light because although the sun has risen, we’re sheltered from it by the sandstone walls around us.

As I shower in the bug-ridden bathrooms I notice a large shadow on the shower curtain. I decide to ignore it for the moment. Later, dried off and with contact lenses in, curiosity gets the better of me. I go back to the shower curtain and draw it back to reveal a large locust, five inches from tip to tail.

08.15am
The sun rises over the rim of the canyon. Apart from the wild turkey, everything is asleep: the deer, the woodpeckers and roadrunners, even the flies are slumbering.

08.50am
Courtney and I set out on a hike through the canyon. The guidebook tells us that Palo Duro means hard wood, so the canyon was named after the mesquite trees that grow within it. It’s a week day, so we have the park entirely to ourselves for a couple of hours. The only noise is the sound of our feet on the dusty canyon floor.